Investing for retirement
The state pension will be much smaller than the salary you earn now. This page explains, from scratch, how pensions work — around the world and in Moldova — and how you can build, on your own, through regular investing, extra income for old age.
Three sources of income in old age
There comes a day when you no longer work, but your expenses remain. The money you live on then can come from three directions. We'll go through them one by one on this page, but first, here's the big picture.
The public pension
Paid by the state from the contributions of people who work now. Guaranteed, but usually much smaller than the salary you used to earn.
Private pension fund
You put in money voluntarily, and a regulated administrator invests it for you. In Moldova, the first one has only just appeared.
Your own investment
You invest on your own, regularly, through a regulated broker. You control the money, the costs and the timing of withdrawals.
The goal, in brief: in old age, you want a monthly income on top of the state pension — money you save and invest yourself, year after year. Below, you'll see step by step how you build up this capital, and in the last chapter, how you turn it into a monthly income at retirement.
How pensions work around the world
Almost all developed countries use a pension system built on "pillars" — several sources that complement each other, so you don't depend on just one. Here's how each one works: who puts in the money, where it goes, and who manages it.
Pillar I — state
Every month, a social contribution is withheld from employees' salaries and goes to the state. The state uses it right away, to pay the pensions of people who are already retired.
In short: the generation working today pays the pensions of the generation retired today.
Its weakness: it depends on how many people are working compared to how many are retired. As the population ages, the money becomes harder to come by.
Pillar II — mandatory, invested
In countries that have it, part of that same social contribution (which would otherwise go entirely to the state) is set aside in a personal account, in your name. The money in that account is invested by a fund and builds up over the course of your career.
At retirement, you receive what has built up in your account, plus whatever the investments earned.
It exists in many countries, for example in Romania. It doesn't exist in Moldova.
Pillar III — voluntary
On top of the mandatory contribution that goes to the state, you choose to voluntarily put extra money, from your own income, into a private fund. No one forces you to — you do it so you'll have more at retirement. The money is invested and builds up in a personal account.
This is what, in legal terms, is called a "private pension."
And is your own investment a fourth pillar? No, not officially. The model has 3 pillars (sometimes extended to 5, with a base "pillar 0" and a "pillar 4" that means informal support: family, owning your home). The investment you make on your own for retirement isn't a separate pillar — it's part of Pillar III (voluntary provisioning), except that you manage it yourself, instead of a fund.
What pensions actually exist in Moldova
Unlike countries with developed pension systems, Moldova doesn't have all three pillars. In practice, you have the state pension and, only recently, a voluntary private option. Here's what's available to you.
Pillar I — the public system (CNAS)
The only mandatory pillar in Moldova. The pension is calculated from your years of contribution and the income on which you paid contributions throughout your life. It's managed by the National Social Insurance House.
Pillar II doesn't exist yet — you don't have a mandatory invested account, the way an employee in Romania does.
Pillar III — has only just appeared
Moldova has approved its first voluntary pension fund, operating since April 2026. You can contribute only if you're officially employed or self-employed, with a minimum of 300 lei per month (amounts you can change or suspend at any time).
One advantage: contributions are deductible from taxable income, up to 15% of gross annual income. In exchange, the money stays locked in until age 60.
Participating in the voluntary fund doesn't affect your state pension — it's something extra. Funds of this kind are supervised by the CNPF, the non-bank financial market authority. We compare it at length with investing on your own in chapter 11.
(The data about the fund come from its official prospectus, approved by the CNPF in February 2026.)
How much you'll be short at retirement
To see just how small the pension is, we compare it with the salary. But the "average salary" you hear about in the news needs to be understood correctly: it's just a statistical average — you add up all the salaries in the Republic of Moldova and divide by the number of employees. It doesn't tell you how much you need to live on (that's a different indicator, the minimum subsistence level), only how much people earn on average. And it's misleading, because well-paid fields, like IT, pull the average up. The figure closer to reality is the median — the salary "in the middle," with half the population earning more and half earning less.
Half of employees take home under about 9,000 lei a month (≈ 12,000 lei gross). Nearly one in five takes home under ~5,800 lei (7,000 gross).
Those who work unofficially, "off the books," often don't even show up in these statistics and can earn even less.
At retirement, income drops sharply: the average old-age pension is around 4,400 lei, and the minimum pension is as low as 3,265 lei. In short, after a lifetime of work you're left with about half of what you used to earn — or even less. This difference is the gap, and it can be covered by savings invested early.
Figures from official sources: National Bureau of Statistics (salary distribution, September 2025) and CNAS (average pension, end of 2025; minimum pension as of April 1, 2026). The institutions publish and periodically revise these figures.
The pension you build yourself, through investing
This isn't an idea of ours — it's how it's done across the entire developed world. In the United States, for example, 62% of adults own stocks, most of them precisely through pension accounts and investment funds (Gallup data, 2025).
Why do people invest the most in precisely the world's largest economy? Because their state pension (Social Security) is only a base — it isn't enough on its own. Just like in Moldova, actually. The difference is that Americans have systems that push them to invest: workplace pension accounts (401(k), where the employer often adds money on top of your own contribution) and individual accounts, encouraged through tax exemptions. That's how almost everyone ends up investing. Americans hold over $30 trillion in these accounts today.
We, in Moldova, don't have such systems — so, to cover the same gap, we have to do it ourselves. The mechanism is simple: you regularly set aside an amount and invest it. The stock market suits any amount — large or small — and especially small, regular amounts, which is why we focus on it here. A natural question: is a personal pension built only through the stock market? Not only. You can also use rental property, bank deposits or a business of your own.
You learn
You understand the instruments and the risks, so you can make informed decisions. This page is the starting point.
You open an account
You choose a regulated broker and open an account, online.
You contribute monthly
You invest a fixed amount every month and adjust it over time, depending on your age.
Yes, the first step takes a bit of effort — unlike a fund, where you "set it and forget it." But you learn it once, something that's part of your financial education anyway, and then you use it forever. In exchange, you don't give away a share of your profit every year in fees for something you can easily do yourself.
Time and the snowball effect
The gains you reinvest produce, in turn, more gains. At first, capital grows slowly; after years, faster and faster — like a snowball rolling downhill and picking up more and more snow. That's why when you start matters more than how much you start with.
Where do we get a reference return from? The US stock market has an index called the S&P 500 — the 500 largest US companies, calculated by the financial agency Standard & Poor's. It's the best-known and most-watched index in the world, considered a kind of standard in global investing, which is why we use it as a benchmark. It has delivered, on average, around 10% per year since 1957 (the year the index launched), with dividends reinvested. After inflation, the real gain has been closer to around 7% per year.
An example calculation. You put in 1,500 lei every month, for 30 years. Out of your own pocket goes a total of 540,000 lei. The rest depends on the return:
- at ~7% per year (a cautious estimate), the capital would hypothetically reach around 1.7 million lei;
- at ~10% per year (the historical average of the S&P 500), around 3.4 million lei.
In both cases, the largest part doesn't come from what you deposited, but from the gains reinvested over time.
The good part: there have been many years with returns well above average — in 13 of the last 30 years the index rose more than 20% in a single year (for example +31% in 2019, +26% in 2023, +25% in 2024). The average of the last 30 years has been around 10.4% per year. The good years have outweighed the weak ones.
And a "growth" index: the Nasdaq 100 brings together 100 of the largest US companies listed on the Nasdaq exchange, most of them from technology (Apple, Microsoft, Nvidia), but not all. It has had higher historical returns (for example ~17% per year over the last decade), but also stronger swings — better suited to the years when your capital is growing, when you're young, than to the years right before retirement (see the chapter on allocation by age).
Keep in mind: these figures are hypothetical and illustrative. Actual returns vary from year to year, can also be negative, and the final value depends on the market, on inflation and on the currency you invest in. No one can guarantee a return.
Because of this same effect, someone who starts at 25, instead of 35, usually ends up with almost double at retirement, for the same monthly amount — because those extra 10 years are exactly the years when the snowball is at its biggest. You can try your own numbers in the calculator in chapter 11.
What you invest in for retirement
For a long horizon, there are a few standard instruments, and they're usually combined for diversification:
- Index ETFs. An ETF is a basket of assets traded on the stock exchange. An index ETF includes, in a single purchase, dozens or hundreds of companies (for example, the companies in the S&P 500). You buy diversification automatically, at low cost — the reason they're popular for long-term investing.
- Dividend stocks. Mature companies that periodically share part of their profit with shareholders. They can provide a regular income, on top of price growth. More in What Passive Income Is.
- Bonds. You lend money to a government or a company in exchange for interest. They're more stable than stocks and are used to temper a portfolio's swings, especially close to retirement.
- Government securities (VMS) from Moldova. You lend money to the Moldovan state in exchange for interest. They're a local, low-risk option, and the interest has been tax-exempt since August 15, 2024 — useful for the conservative portion of your retirement money.
If you're starting from scratch with the basics, read What is investing first.
How much risk you take on, depending on age
The general rule: while you're young and have many years left until retirement, you can hold a larger share in stocks — they grow more over the long term, but swing along the way (growth indices like the Nasdaq 100 can fit here too). As you get closer to retirement, you gradually shift toward bonds and stable instruments, to protect what you've built up. This mechanism is called a "glide path" — the gradual lowering of risk. It's the principle behind "target-date funds," widely used in US pension plans.
Growth
A larger share in stocks / index ETFs. You have time to ride out market downturns.
Balance
A combination of stocks and bonds. You start gradually reducing risk.
Protection
A larger share in bonds and stable assets. The priority becomes preserving capital.
The age bands are indicative and depend on your risk tolerance and personal situation. You'll find portfolio models (60/40, All-Weather) at Investment portfolios.
How to get started, in practice
- Choose a regulated broker. The safety of your money is the first rule: at a regulated broker, your assets are held separately from the firm's own.
- Open the account online and go through identity verification.
- Set a monthly amount and invest it consistently, regardless of how the market moves. For retirement, many people periodically buy the same broad ETF (for example, on the S&P 500) — simple, without needing to be an expert. Investing fixed, regular amounts smooths out your average purchase price over time and takes the emotion out of the decision.
See and compare regulated investment brokers at Investment brokers.
You don't have to start alone, from scratch. In a consultation or a course, we show you step by step how to choose your instruments, build your portfolio and manage it yourself — you learn it once and use it for a lifetime, without paying a fund year after year for something you can just as easily do yourself.
Taxation in Moldova
In short, for long-term investing:
- Capital gains (from selling assets at a profit): the taxable base is half the gain, and the rate is 12% — meaning an effective tax of about 6%.
- Filing is done through Form CET18, by April 30 of the following year.
- Foreign dividends are taxed at 12%; domestic dividends and interest are taxed at 6%, withheld at source. Interest on government securities is tax-exempt.
These are indicative rules; for your exact situation, see Is stock market profit taxed? or ask a specialist.
On your own or through a fund?
Both options are valid. We put them side by side, with real figures, so you can make an informed decision.
| Criterion | Through a voluntary fund | On your own |
|---|---|---|
| Who decides how the money is invested | The fund administrator, following a preset strategy | You |
| Who can participate | Only officially employed people and entrepreneurs | Anyone |
| Contribution | Minimum 300 lei/month; you can change, suspend and resume it any time | Flexible, you set it |
| Deposit cost (when you put money in) | 4% of every contribution | The broker usually doesn't charge for deposits; your bank may add a fee |
| Trading commission (buying and selling) | Paid by the fund when it buys or sells assets; the cost comes out of its assets, so you bear it indirectly (it lowers the unit value) | You pay on every purchase and sale — a flat fee or a percentage (~0.1–1%). Even with "zero commission," there's still a small cost in the spread (the difference between the buy and sell price) |
| Custody / account maintenance (per year) | 1% per year (custodian fee) | 0 at some brokers; at others, a small fee — either a percentage (~0.1% per year) or a flat amount per quarter (roughly ~€20/CHF 20) |
| Money management (per year) | Up to 2.5% per year | 0 — you do it yourself |
| Withdrawal cost (taking the money out) | At retirement, only the bank's transfer fees; 5% only if you transfer the money to another fund within the first 3 years | The broker usually doesn't charge for withdrawals, or charges a small flat fee; your bank may add a fee |
| Tax advantage | You don't pay the 12% tax on the money you put into the fund — up to 15% of your gross annual income. That means you save 12% of your contributions. | No deduction on deposit; capital gains are taxed at the end, effectively ~6%. |
| Return | The fund does not guarantee a return — the unit value can also fall, and you carry the market risk just as you would on your own. It invests conservatively (60–80% low-risk assets), so the expected return is usually lower than the market's, but the swings are gentler. | You choose it — and you also choose your risk level: from broad indices (S&P 500, historically ~10%/year) to more aggressive ones (Nasdaq), better suited mainly to younger investors. The higher the return you target, the more it swings. There's no guarantee here either — the value can fall, and the market risk is yours. |
| Access to your money | You can stop contributions at any time, without penalty — but the money stays locked in until age 60 (exceptions: death or disability). At 60 you receive it even if you haven't accumulated 60 monthly contributions. | Any time |
| Protection in case of bankruptcy | By law, the fund cannot be declared insolvent; its assets are kept separate from the administrator's; supervised by the CNPF | Your assets are registered separately, in your name, at the custodian — they aren't part of the broker's estate. If the broker goes bankrupt, they remain yours and can be transferred to another broker. On top of that, there are cash compensation schemes (EU up to €20,000, Switzerland up to CHF 100,000, US up to $500,000). |
| Effort on your part | Low — "set it and forget it" | Low — you periodically buy the same broad ETF; you don't need to be an expert |
On safety, the conclusion: in both options your money is protected if the company goes bankrupt — at the fund, by law; at the broker, because your holdings are held separately and remain yours. So safety isn't what should decide your choice. What decides it is cost, control and access to your money.
About this comparison: the data about the voluntary fund come from its official prospectus (approved by the CNPF, February 2026); the figures about the stock market and brokers are public and indicative. Important: neither the fund nor your own investment guarantees a return — the market risk is the same. This isn't a recommendation, but a presentation of the facts, so you can decide for yourself. The two options have different risk profiles.
All the costs of the DIY option, so you know them: the trading commission (on buying and on selling), the spread, sometimes a flat custody fee that matters more on small accounts, the ETF's own annual fee (very small for index ETFs, ~0.1–0.2% per year) and, at some brokers, a small stamp duty on transactions. Added together, at a well-chosen broker, they stay well below a fund's annual cost — but that's exactly why choosing the right broker matters.
The biggest difference is in costs. A 4% commission on every deposit, plus annual fees of up to ~3.5% per year on the entire capital, applied over decades, add up. On your own, even at a pricier broker, the annual cost stays well under 1%. You can see for yourself what the difference looks like:
CalculatorOn your own vs. a voluntary fund
Enter your own numbers. The calculation includes the fees and taxes on both sides (see the note below). Try different values to see how the result changes.
You would contribute out of pocket 720,000 lei. The difference between the options: 979,599 lei.
A hypothetical scenario, not a guarantee. It assumes the same gross return for both options. For the DIY option, it assumes a reasonable broker (~0.4% per year total cost, covering the commissions on buying and selling, with no flat custody fee) and a ~6% tax on the final gain. For the fund, it deducts 4% on deposit and the annual fees from the prospectus (up to 2.5% management + 1% custodian ≈ 3.5%/year), but adds the tax deduction (12% of contributions, assumed within the legal limit). In reality, the fund invests more conservatively, so its gross return may also be lower, and it doesn't guarantee a return either.
In general, doing it yourself costs less than paying someone else to do it for you — provided you learn the minimum necessary to do it right. That's why the answer is different for everyone: on one side of the scale sits the effort of learning and doing it yourself, on the other, the money you save. You decide which way the scale tips.
Common mistakes
- Putting it off. "I'll start next year" is the costliest decision — you lose exactly the years when time was working hardest for you.
- Stopping at the first market downturn. Downturns are part of the process; whoever sells in a panic misses the recovery. The same thing happens in a fund — its value falls when the assets it bought fall — except you don't see the movement day to day.
- Early withdrawals from money meant for retirement, for current expenses.
- Chasing promised high returns. Any "guarantee" of a high profit is a sign of a dubious scheme. A guaranteed return doesn't exist — not in a fund, not on your own. Everyone invests in the same markets, just possibly in different assets.
- Lack of diversification and ignoring costs, which add up over 30 years.
How to properly manage your money once you reach retirement
You've built up capital over 30 years. What do you do with it? You gradually shift the money toward more stable instruments (bonds, deposits) and withdraw only a portion each year, so it lasts as long as possible.
A rule widely used around the world is the 4% rule, proposed by American financial planner William Bengen in 1994 and later confirmed by a Trinity University study (1998): in your first year of retirement (when you start withdrawing) you take about 4% of your capital, then adjust the amount for inflation in the following years. If the remaining money stays invested, the capital has a good chance of lasting for decades without running out. With capital of, say, 2 million lei, that would mean around 80,000 lei a year — about 6,700 lei a month, on top of the state pension.
But does it make sense to keep all the capital intact? Not necessarily. The 4% rule is designed to make your money last for decades and, usually, leave an inheritance too. If that's not your goal, you can spend more: you plan your withdrawals to gradually draw down the capital as well, over the years you have left to live. In Moldova, where life expectancy is lower than in the West, many people choose, after a certain age, a more relaxed plan — to enjoy the money, not just preserve it. What matters is having a plan, so the money runs out neither too soon nor stays entirely unused.
We cover the withdrawal phase and the 4% rule at length in Financial independence.
Short answers
With an amount you can afford monthly. What matters is regularity and starting early, not a large starting sum. There's no universal minimum capital — it depends on your situation.
Through a fund, you give up part of your money for a service you can do yourself, fairly simply. In the US, 62% of adults invest in the stock market, many just by periodically buying an index fund. The same index (for example the S&P 500) can also be bought by an investor in Moldova, through their own account. The fund has the advantage of minimal effort and the tax deduction; your own account means full control and lower costs. The table in chapter 11 puts them side by side.
Any investment carries risk, including losses. Over a long, diversified horizon the risk decreases, but it doesn't disappear. A guaranteed return doesn't exist.
You gradually shift toward more stable instruments and withdraw in a controlled way, so you don't exhaust the capital too soon — or, if you choose, you draw it down gradually according to a plan. Details in chapter 13.
Yes. Investing through regulated international brokers is allowed. For the local framework, see the dedicated page in the Education section.
We offer education, information and comparisons about the market and about regulated brokers, plus consultations where we answer your questions. The final decision is always yours.
Build your retirement plan
Start with a free consultation: we work out together how much you can set aside, what to invest in, which broker to use, and how to adjust along the way.
National Bureau of Statistics (salary distribution, 2025) · CNAS and the Government of the Republic of Moldova (average and minimum pension, 2025–2026) · the official prospectus of Moldova's voluntary pension fund (approved by the CNPF, February 2026) · Gallup (stock ownership in the US, 2025) · historical S&P 500 data (Standard & Poor's; average return from public market sources) · the 4% rule (W. Bengen, 1994; the Trinity study, 1998).
Risk notice. This material is for educational and informational purposes only and does not constitute individual investment, tax or legal advice. Investing involves risks, including the loss of invested capital. Past results do not guarantee future results. The examples and calculations on this page are hypothetical and illustrative. Before investing, assess your situation or seek help from a specialist.